Showing posts with label France. Show all posts
Showing posts with label France. Show all posts

Friday, May 23, 2014

A bientôt


My contract in Saint-Quentin finished at the end of April, and after a trip to Bordeaux, family vacation in England and Italy, and two quick final days in Saint-Quentin, I returned to the United States on May 7th. I’ve been back for two weeks now, trying to readjust to American life while processing everything I experienced this past year.

Being back is surreal. Some parts of coming home are great, like spending time with my family and reconnecting with friends. I’ve also enjoyed simple things, like driving around town and cuddling with my dogs, and of course unlimited refills of big mugs of coffee.

It’s been difficult, too. I had a great experience living in Saint-Quentin, and I could have happily remained there for longer than my allotted seven months.  I don’t want to sugarcoat the experience; the first two months in France were especially challenging. But once I had established a routine, built ties with people, and gained a better understanding of the culture in Picardie, my life abroad became really good.

I learned a lot this year. Of course I learned a LOT of French, and I also learned how to do adult-y things—buy groceries and cook food, open a bank account and organize travel plans, not to mention how to successfully navigate my first real, non-internship job after college. The fact that I managed most of these feats in French added to the sense of self-reliance and agency that I acquired over the year.

I also learned, and was shocked to discover, that I could be happy living in a small town with only six bus lines and almost everything I needed less than a half-hour walk away. I previously thought I would need to live in close proximity to a big city—DC or Boston or Chicago. In Saint-Quentin I learned the joy of walking everywhere, of recognizing the same people at my neighborhood bakery, of a weekday “rush hour” that lasted 20 minutes and involved fewer cars than you’d see in Vienna on a Sunday.

Why I enjoyed life in France came from a deeper place than the excitement of living abroad and the novelty of traveling around Europe. I grew up taking the metro to high school, fighting DC traffic while commuting to jobs and internships, playing my expected part in the whirlwind and stress of an American city. In Saint-Quentin, the pace slowed down.  There were exceptions—Paris is quite lively and busy, and I admit that there’s something to be said for the culture and diversity a large city offers (there were certainly days in Saint-Quentin where I didn’t have quite enough to do). But I grew to love the calmer vibe of Picardie. Going home for lunch in the middle of the day, which at first was super bizarre, became a nice respite and time to recharge. Meeting friends for a drink in the afternoon and chatting for hours became normal instead of a rare treat. It’s not that I dislike my life in the US—it’s just that in Saint-Quentin, I could slow down and actually appreciate and reflect on things.

I’ve experienced several periods of big adjustment in the last few years: adjusting to two colleges, to Nantes for study abroad and coming home afterwards, to life after college when I graduated last year and to Saint-Quentin when I arrived in October.  Adjusting now has been different from all those other times. It comes down to something I realized in France in the days leading up to my departure. For the first time in my life, I felt at home in a place that wasn’t where I grew up. For all the highs and lows, through the lost-in-translation moments and French language victories, difficulties I faced and friends I met, I managed to build a community and a place for myself in Saint-Quentin.

I fell in love with the pace of life in a small French town, while becoming addicted to the constant process of cultural discovery experienced by anyone living in their second language.  I made connections, with people I tutored, with students, with fellow assistants and fellow teachers. I was full of nostalgia while touring the centre-ville for a final time, walking past my favorite shops and through my favorite park. The hardest part was saying goodbye to all the people I met and became close with during the past seven months. I couldn’t bring myself to say au revoir; to do so meant acknowledging both that I was leaving their company and that I was saying farewell to a unique and transformative experience.  So instead I simply expressed that I’d see them soon, and that remains my intention. To friends abroad, to Saint-Quentin, to France: à bientôt.


Monday, February 17, 2014

Food!

Food is one of the first things that comes up when I talk to people about living in France. I have been eating quite well this year, as I've taken the "I'm only in France for seven months" perspective when it comes to French cuisine. Plus, I've travelled to some places outside of France with great food as well. I photographed some of my best food experiences, from Normandy to London to Istanbul and even Saint-Quentin.

Savory foods:

~ Omelette, fries, and salad from a Saint-Quentin restaurant ~

~ Coffee, bread, and cheese in a Saint-Quentin cafe ~
~Salmon, sauerkraut (choucroute), and potatoes, New Year's Eve dinner in Strasbourg~

Desserts:

~ Chocolate lava cake with cream sauce in Bayeux, Normandy ~

~ Blueberry tart, Strasbourg ~

~ Waffle with nutella, Pierrefonds ~

From Other Countries:

~ Turkish delight and cake display, Istanbul ~

~ Tea and scones from the Muffin Man Teashop in London ~
~ Pies from the Borough Market, London ~

My Own Cooking Successes: (the tart mold opened up a lot of doors for me...)

~ Tomato and cheese tart ~

~ Apple tart; Broccoli, mushroom, and cheese quiche ~

Sunday, February 16, 2014

Day Trip: Chateau de Pierrefonds

Yesterday I took a day trip to the Chateau de Pierrefonds with Alex, Sarah, Haidee, and Swenja. The castle was gorgeous, in a fairy tale setting atop a hill surrounded by trees. Pierrefonds has been nicely restored and we had a lovely time exploring the painted rooms, spiral staircases, and long corridors offering amazing views of the village below.

~ Arriving to Pierrefonds ~

~ Approaching the castle ~

~ About to go inside ~

~ Chateau courtyard ~

~ Statues! ~

~ The coolest drain pipe in the world ~

~ Gorgeous interior paintings ~

~ Lion statue ~

~ There were so many cool staircases ~

~ View from the chateau ~

~ Stained glass in the chapel ~

Saturday, February 8, 2014

Weekend Trip: Reims

First things first: "Reims" is pronounced as if it were spelled "Rince." Don't ask me why, something about the old French language and ancient French cities and the French people having problems accepting change, etc etc.

Last weekend I took a trip to Reims with Yirah, Katie, and Marie. Reims is a fairly large city in the Champagne region, not too far from Saint-Quentin. It has an impressive cathedral where all of France's kings were crowned, which is cool. We visited the cathedral as well as the Palais du Tau, which houses some of the "cathedral treasures" in a lovely palace converted into a museum. We also stopped by the Basilica museum, and finished off our stay with a tour of some historical champagne caves and a champagne tasting. It was quite delicious.


~ Reims Cathedral ~

~ Inside the cathedral ~

 
~ Impressive stonework in the Palais du Tau ~

~ Some of the cathedral treasure ~

~ Perfect sunset shot down the Reims tramway ~

~ Followed by moonrise ~

~ Historical champagne cave! ~

~ Basilica ~

~ Basilica museum courtyard ~

~ Inside the Basilica museum ~

Tuesday, January 28, 2014

Halfway Mark

I've officially passed the halfway mark for this year, and it's kind of surreal to realize that my time in Saint-Quentin is more than half over. The beginning of the second half of the year could not feel more different than starting the first half in October. Here's a look at how some things have changed (especially since I wrote this post in November).

My Job. Getting easier? No, actually. Coming up with a range of lessons that will interest the students, motivate them to work, and hit that perfect balance between age and English level continues to be challenging. What I have noticed, however, is that I'm more confident in front of a class than I was before. I am no longer disturbed by being stared at, and I'm much less worried about impressing the students with every lesson. Some days are great, some are flops, life goes on.

Language. When I was getting ready to leave Nantes after my 3.5 month long program, I felt like my French ability was just starting to really improve. I've been in Saint-Quentin two weeks longer than I was in Nantes, and I can already see a difference from just the two week addition. I've had a pretty okay time understanding French this year, but I've noticed an increased fluency in my spoken French in the last couple of weeks. Hopefully in my time left I can master the dreaded subjunctive, forever my nemesis in French.

People. My connections to the people here continue to deepen. I'm now tutoring three students and two adults, and my sessions with the adults are especially rewarding. I enjoy chatting with people who've had very different life experiences than I've had, but finding a lot more common ground than anticipated. I'm more and more at ease with the teachers at school, entering into conversations more readily with not just the English teachers but those in other disciplines too. I almost worry that I won't get enough out of these relationships in the comparatively short time I have left (there are, incredibly, only nine full teaching weeks left). I continue to enjoy trips, movie dates, and nights out with the other assistants (and a few French friends we've acquired along the way), and I'm getting more and more out of this lovely international group I'm lucky to be a part of.

Living abroad. Around mid-November, I was wishing time would speed up. I often felt that I didn't have enough to do in Saint-Quentin, I wasn't fully settled into my school, and I didn't know my friends that well. The Christmas break seemed like it was ages away, and the end of my contract in April might as well have been years away. Now, of course, time has finally sped up and I wish it would slow down a bit. I've gotten quite used to Saint-Quentin, and am even fond of some things here...the charming central square, which is currently setting up for a new fair only a few weeks after the Christmas market ended...the bakery down the street, where the bakers recognize me and smile when I ask, my accent evident, for a baguette and a pastry...even the movie theater, with its limited "original version" options, where I've resigned to seeing Le Loup de Wall Street in French. When I arrived, I was doubtful I would become attached to the town, but four months later I'm starting to realize that leaving may be harder than arriving.

Saturday, December 21, 2013

Vacances de Noel

My second of three 2-week vacations begins this weekend! This one is the Christmas break (not to be confused with the winter break in February). I'll be taking two trips: the first to Istanbul (I did my best to find a non-Christian country where I could do tourist-y things during Christmas), and the second to Paris and Strasbourg with my friend Sean. I'm really excited about the trips: Istanbul and Strasbourg are both places I've wanted to visit for a long time.


~ Map of my travels ~
Saint-Quentin - IstanbulSaint-Quentin - Paris - Strasbourg


Happy holidays everyone--see you in 2014!

*map from Google

Wednesday, November 13, 2013

Life in France: Pros and Cons

This is my second time living in France (I studied abroad in Nantes). There are definitely some things, both good and bad, that I’ve forgotten in the two years since I was last here. I’ve also noticed new things about living in France that are making my experiences this time around quite different from Nantes.  So, on the eve of my seven-week anniversary in Saint-Quentin, here are some pros and cons of life in France.

Pro: Food. I have easily taken to the French practice of buying a baguette several times a week from the bakery down the street, with which I eat Camembert cheese almost daily.

Con: Cold. Even with the heat on, buildings never seem to get truly warm here. Given that minimal heating is much better for the environment, I feel a bit of inner conflict with this one…but usually, I settle with the American perspective that I am entitled to a comfortably toasty room in the winter.

Pro: Fashion (“mode” in French. I was in a store last week choosing between different shoes, and the salesman kept pointing to his favorite pair and saying “c’est la mode!” over and over).  I’ve also indulged in buying some new French sweaters with trademark elbow patches. I’m trying to be inspired, rather than intimidated, by how effortlessly chic the French are.

Pro: TV. French TV does weird things like have a program start at 6:25 or 8:50, or have a single 10-minute long commercial break during an hour-long show. I only have a few channels in my apartment, which is a good thing: there’s not so much choice that I waste a ton of time watching TV, but there is enough available that I get to practice my French comprehension through such delights as French Big Bang Theory, French Lord of the Rings, and French news.

Pro: Walking everywhere.  Taking walks has been a nice way to get to know my town, as well as a convenient way to pass time on a sleepy Sunday. (Plus, it’s always good to get fresh air after working on lesson plans for several hours.)

Con: Walking everywhere. Saint-Quentin is very charming and I enjoy walking around… except that a) it rains almost every day in fall/winter, and b) temperatures have started dropping into the 40s and 30s. So I a) have my umbrella with me at all times, and b) wear at least four layers when spending more than fifteen minutes outside. My cold tolerance is…not very high.

Con: Sundays. Pretty much everything is closed on Sunday in a French town of 60,000.

Pro: People. The people in Saint-Quentin have been very nice so far. I don’t know if they hear my accent and just pity me a little, but I’ve found dealing with people here, even just interactions in a store, to be very pleasant. This totally dispels the “snooty Parisian” stereotype.

Con: People. In a way, I was fairly sheltered from the French in Nantes. I had people like teachers and waiters to deal with, but I didn’t need to make any connections with French people on my own – I was conveniently ensconced in my host family and American friends. The French have their own norms for social interactions; they’re more private than Americans to start, and there are other subtler, less easily defined differences.  Americans are told to just smile and be as friendly as possible, but that would come across as fairly pushy and overzealous in France. While acclimating to my new job, I’m also trying to fit in with new colleagues in an environment with implicit norms I don’t fully understand. This has been, I think, the most challenging thing so far.

Pro: Language. It’s just cool to know a second language! Even though I am by no means fluent and certainly ask French people to repeat themselves sometimes, we usually understand each other in the end. It’s fun.

Pro: Travel. Trains here are awesome, and there are tons of little towns all over Picardie that are easy to access. Every city has an interesting historical site, medieval quarter, castle or cathedral that is worth visiting.

Pro: My job. My main purpose for being here is to be an English teaching assistant, and I’m happy to report that it’s definitely a pro so far.  I like the teachers I’m working with, many of the students are enthusiastic learners, and I’m actually enjoying the process of planning lessons (stay tuned for a more detailed teaching post soon).

~ Sunset view from my kitchen (another pro) ~